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I’m a food writer that does not eat out much.
I know that sounds oxymoronic, but quite frankly, a) as a freelance writer, the economics of it does not make sense. I’d lose money if I kept my finger on the pulse b) I find restaurant chasing exhausting and overwhelming.
While one may argue that it’s cheaper to eat out in Taipei than to cook, that’s only true if you live in the heart of the city and are willing to subsist on a parade of greasy bentos. Fun for a tourist, but miserable for a long-time resident. I live out in the outskirts of the city and I’m at a point where I’m really tired of the soy sauce plus five spice plus sugar combo that coats every single Taiwanese protein.
Now don’t get me wrong. I admire folks who keep an eye on what’s new. Someone has to do it. I got my start in the genre: When I was 21 years old and in my last year of college, I was a freelance food writer for the Village Voice where I penned quick blog posts five times a day about the latest in New York City dining. I know firsthand how much stamina it requires to keep on top of the scene.
My favorite restaurants are the most consistent ones. The ones that have been around for a hot second, but no longer trend or make the listicles because there’s nothing new, timely, or invigorating about them.
So without further ado, here’s a list.
Caveat: This is not a Best Of or definitive list. I still have people quoting my CNN article about Tainan eats that I wrote in 2015 (that’s nine years ago!), which is embarrassing because the scene has changed so much since then and I wouldn’t recommend most of those vendors anymore.
These are just places I would send my friends. It’s a list I’ve been meaning to write down somewhere because people assume I automatically know the best places to eat (I don’t) and expect me to have some sort of elaborate Google Map list with all the hidden gems (does not exist, sry).
For a comfortable upscale lunch: Sinchao Rice Shoppe
Fancy fried rice with an in-house bar. Upscale lounge vibes with upholstered booths. Sounds gimmicky but surprisingly good. Located on the second floor of Breeze Xinyi right near Taipei 101. Turn left once you get off of the elevator. Favorite dish to order: duck breast over taro-studded fried rice.
All-around favorite: Jinjiang Tea House
Hakka family-style fare in an old Japanese wooden building covered in bougainvilleas. Photogenic, but also just really hearty fare. I always get the cold poached chicken with kumquat dipping sauce and the stir-fried sugar cane shoots (not sweet, tastes like bamboo!).
Rechao: Baxian
I know, I know. Not the best quality rechao out there, but it serves up good vibes with all the yellow lanterns and the outdoor seating. A good place to impress first-time visitors to the island. I like: the steamed mala stinky tofu and the miso-glazed salmon. The bird’s nest fern is a perennial favorite. Baxian is also relatively vegetarian-friendly if you ask them to leave out the meat on certain dishes (plz be reasonable!). A great place to linger and indulge in crates of beers.
A plug: I wrote about rechao culture here.
Beef noodle soup: